Sowing seeds is easy, child's play you might say. Most of what you need to know is printed on the back of the seed packet - what time of year to sow, whether indoors or out, what to do next and so on.
Apart from that the main things to remember are these:
- Sow more seeds than you want plants. Some seeds will fail to germinate. Some will grow weak and spindly. We sowed three seeds in each station. When they've sprung up, we'll thin out all but the strongest.
- Don't bury them too deeply. Generally speaking, they need to be buried under the same thickness of compost as their size. So big seeds like broad beans are about an inch long, and need to be buried under about an inch of compost. Small seeds like tomatoes are about 1/16" and need to be covered with a pinch of compost from your fingers. Tiny seeds like lettuce are barely specks, and can be sprinkled on the surface.
- Keep the compost moist. Don't let it dry out but don't flood them either. A plant mister is just the job for seeds and seedlings, or let water soak into the pots from below.
3 comments:
You're off to an early start getting those seeds in now!!!
These are the early birds of a successional sowing programme I'm trying this year. I'll make repeat sowings at roughly 2 week intervals so some seeds will go in early, some at the conventional time, and some will be late. It's part experiment (what is "too early" or "too late") and part an attempt to avoid the "glut and famine" phenomenon.
It was inspired by observing last year how our late-sown runner beans (enforced by our late acquisition of our plot) were producing beans long after other allotmenteer's runner bean seasons had finished.
I'm also experimenting to a lesser degree with different varieties, for the same reason. The Ailsa Craig toms we sowed yesterday should ripen earlier than the other varieties I'll be sowing later in the year.
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